Craft Foam:
Worbla/Wonderflex:
Paper Mache:
Fiberglass:
Find the mother lode of costuming tutorials ---> here.
Where to buy materials:
- Foammart - L200 in 1/4" thickness is available in black or white sheets, is both comparable and more cost efficient with Foamies 6mm craft foam sheets, it'll be under the Closed Cell Foam tab.
- Spandex World - this is the material you'll want if you're covering your armor with fabric, the prices are generally lower than going to the fabric store(unless you have the right coupons!!) but be weary that on your computer's screen the color of the fabric you're buying may not be exact to the color of the fabric in person.
- Sign up for coupons at your local craft/hobby and home improvement/hardware stores - store coupons will work on supplies and tools needed for your armor projects.
Tools and things to consider:
- Heat Gun - for molding foam
- Hot Knife - for cutting Worbla/Wonderflex
- Sandpaper in various grades
- X-Acto/utility knives
- High Temp glue gun - low temp glue guns will not always work as well for armor pieces
- Dremel/Engraver - create finer details on your armor
- Plasti Dip - get this in a spray can, it'll be easier to use and will make a more even coating
- Matte/Gloss paint sealers - you can get glossy or matte paints for your armor but the addition of a sealer will make the paint job last longer, just make sure you're using one to match the overall look you want.
Paper Mache without the Flour:
what you'll need:
- Paper(stock up on brown bags from the grocery store)
- Wallpaper Paste
- Spackle(get this in the tub)
- Light grade sandpaper
- A bowl of warm water
- Vaseline
- Spray enamel/sealer(Rust-Oleum seems to be the most recommended)
You'll want to aim to do 3 layers, you really won't need to do more than that, 1-2 layers can be too weak. To get things started tear up the paper into small, uneven shapes. Keeping it uneven helps ensure that if one comes loose it won't bring up any more with it. You're going to soak each paper piece in warm water(if it gets cold replace it!) then rub a small amount of wallpaper paste over it. From here you're going to cover and layer the mold - make sure to do each layer separately, you'll want each layer to thoroughly dry before starting on the next layer. Once your third layer is done, let the project set for at least a day to allow ample time for drying.
When your project is completely dry it can be pulled off of the mold. If it still feels damp after removing from the mold set it aside and give it more time to dry, it needs to be completely dry before it gets spackled and sealed. If you find excess grease from the Vaseline wipe that off.
You won't need to completely cover your project with Spackle, you only need to apply it to any parts that feel/look uneven. When the spackle dries you can lightly sand it to make an even surface on your project. I recommend sticking to using the spackle that goes on pink and dries white - there's no guessing if it's ready for sanding. When sanding is done your project can be painted and sealed - keep in mind though that if you're opting out of painting it you'll still need to seal it; if the paper mache gets moist it'll either start to fall apart or grow mold - sealing it will prevent this.
Another option for finishing your project is to cover it with Plasti Dip first before painting and sealing, the Plasti Dip will give the paper mache a little more durability.
Have anything to add from a tutorial you recommend or even one you made yourself? Make a note in the comments - this page will be receiving updates and I'll be happy to add recommendations.
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